Dear fellow humans,
this morning, I felt a deep need to start my day slowly. I wanted to contemplate and answer one of the questions I have received instead of diving into my other tasks (e.g., completing an article, as there is a deadline). Before I answer the question I chose to spend some quality time with, there is a tiny update. My time at Roskilde university has come to an end, and it cannot be prolonged because I have just submitted another application for a residence permit, to stay here in Denmark. While the authorities are processing this application, I am not allowed to work (or even volunteer!). Since I will loose access to my Roskilde university account, you can reach me via another email address. You can find it here.
A fellow human asks: What do you generally look for when you need to buy new clothes?
It's such a wonderful question. Questions such as this one remind me how sustainability manifests in our everyday actions and decisions. In what we eat and wear, where we choose to spend our money, how we choose to relate with, e.g., objects and time. And while I think, very often, about the general principles that guide me on my path (such as gentleness and care) and about the qualities I want to nurture in myself (such as empathy and compassion), every day I also think about what to eat and where to get it from, how to reach some town here in Denmark, which soap to buy.
I buy new clothes very rarely, and it doesn't depend on how much I earn. I live with 10 or so items of clothing: 2 pairs of sweatpants, 2 pairs of shorts (though 1 doesn't fit anymore due to pregnancy), 3 basic tops, 1 linen shirt, 1 jacket, 1 woollen scarf. At times, I borrow my partner's white t-shirts, and will probably do so more often as my body is changing, and the basic tops will probably not fit as well.
I wear the same outfit every day, no matter what I do: sweatpants, a basic top and my linen shirt. I wear this outfit when I teach. Recently, I wore it to my own wedding and when I celebrated Christmas with my family.
I buy something when I need to replace an item. A while ago, I had two linen shirts. Unfortunately, one of them wore out (it happens when one lives with very few items and thus wears the items they have very often). I haven't replaced it yet as my partner and I were planning to start a family. I will probably replace it sometime this year, so I'm mainly thinking about this item as I'm writing these words. Here are some characteristics that I'm looking for (many of them are related):
Simplicity. I look for simple items. They must be easy to care for and repair. I don't buy items that require special care, such as dry cleaning, or are difficult for me to repair. I avoid items that have too many details on them, or things like words, patterns and logos.
Durability. I don't buy anything that is made from very thin fabrics. This is because I don't want to be extremely careful when I am with nature or with children. I want to be able to sit in the park, by the sea, sleep in the grass, and not worry about my clothes.
Versatility. Above, I mentioned that I wear the same outfit for all occasions. To me, it is important that I feel good in what I wear. I wear the same items in summer and in winter. I want to be able to use the shirt as a beach dress and to wear for my lectures. I want to sleep in this shirt too if I'm cold.
Colour. As someone living with sensory processing sensitivity, I prefer to wear colours that are not stimulating for me and that match the rest of my wardrobe. I feel cosy and safe with colours such as off-white and cool beige. I understand that many fellow humans prefer other colours, and I celebrate their preferences too: I do not encourage anyone to wear only beige unless this is genuinely something they wish to do.
Material. I live with an autoimmune skin condition. There are many types of fabrics that I cannot wear. And that's ok. Such fabrics are mostly synthetic, so it aligns well with my desire to live more sustainably. I usually go for organic cotton and linen. I've found it relatively easy to find organic cotton sweatpants, shorts and linen shirts. But when it comes to jackets for cold climates, in the past few years I've worn a jacket made from polyester. I bought it in northern Sweden.
Sustainability credentials. To me, it is important that the materials are natural and organic. I try to buy items that are made in Europe because this is where I live (if I lived elsewhere, I'd look for locally produced items). I prefer items that are undyed, but this has not been possible to fulfil (the cotton shopping bags and some of the cotton pouches that I live with are undyed though). I prefer to buy from companies that actively pursue sustainability. It goes without saying, I avoid fast fashion.
These were the main characteristics that I look for when I need to buy new clothes. There is certainly a large gap between my practice and what I would ideally love to wear. When I was doing my PhD, I researched a tiny craft business. The fellow human who owned the business grew her own flax, made her own fibres and then linen fabric from it. She would make her own dresses. She also used natural dyes. A dress like this, she said, would cost several thousands British pounds, which is not affordable for most people. I would like to wear only craft clothing. Yet, this is not something I can do, at least not at this period of my life. So my approach is to have less and do the best I can.
There is no particular company or a brand that I can recommend. My main area of expertise is sustainability in business, and I don't know of any company that makes affordable clothes that satisfy my criteria. There are so many things that are hidden from consumers, such as the business's ownership structure, their relationships with suppliers, and employee's wellbeing. I also think that some brands have become must-have brands amongst sustainability practitioners. Such companies seem to work with influencers rather a lot. It might take our attention away from local companies that might be smaller and not have large marketing departments, but that might also be more sustainable.
Whenever possible, I try to avoid wearing clothes. It is mostly possible at home, my partner's summer house (including the garden), and beaches here in Denmark. I practise naturism whenever I can because my main priority is not my relationship with clothes, but my relationship with my body as it is.